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Historically, the word ruby referred to shades of red, which technically included pink. There are also cultural differences in the interpretation of ruby versus pink sapphire. In some gem-producing nations such as Sri Lanka, pink colors were always considered ruby, while in many consuming countries it is classified as pink sapphire.

The GIA Laboratory uses a controlled set of comparison stones called masterstones to determine if corundum is ruby The laboratory grades its masterstones on the principle that red must be the dominant hue before a stone can be called a ruby. In the gem trade, though, pinpointing the dominant hue is subject to personal perception. Traditional descriptions like these are useful for evoking images and describing color among professionals.

However, the qualities might be typical of that source or they might represent the finest stones from that source. A single source never yields gems that are all the same color and quality.

In fact, the descriptive trade term might represent only a small, yet highly desired percentage of stones from that source. New sources can produce material very similar to rubies from classical localities or present a slightly different appearance, but remain just as beautiful.

The Color of Ruby

People in the trade expect rubies to have at least some inclusions because inclusion-free rubies are practically nonexistent. Ruby value can depend on how visible the inclusions are. If large and prominent inclusions are located under the table facet, they greatly diminish the transparency, brilliance, and value of the stone. Significant surface-reaching fractures can pose durability threats. Typical ruby clarity characteristics include thin mineral inclusions called needles.

When the mineral is rutile and needles are present in intersecting groups, it is called silk. Needles might be short or long and slender, and they might appear to be woven tightly together. Ruby can also contain needles composed of other minerals, small crystals, zones of color variation, or inclusions that resemble fingerprints. The presence of rutile silk causes light to scatter across facets that might otherwise be too dark. Needles that intersect can also cause the star effect, called asterism, when the stone is cut with a curved upper surface, called a cabochon cut.

Several factors affect the cut and proportion of rubies on the market.

Rubies: The real rock stars

The most common shape is a flat tabular hexagonal shape, but ruby crystals from some sources can be elongated. To accommodate these crystal shapes, the most common shapes of fashioned rubies are ovals and cushions, with brilliant-cut crowns of kite-shaped and triangular facets, and step-cut pavilions with concentric rows of rectangular or square facets.

Round, triangular, emerald-cut, pear, and marquise rubies are also available. But these shapes are rare in larger sizes and higher qualities. Ruby rough is very expensive, so many cutters try to conserve as much weight as possible.

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They might fashion flattened ruby rough into shallow stones, even though light escapes through flattened pavilions, causing an unattractive see-through area in the stone called a window. Pleochroism—the appearance of different colors in different crystal directions—is another factor that influences cut. In ruby it typically appears as red to purplish red in one crystal direction and orangy red in the other.